How To: Kirito Jacket

The coat base is modified from Simplicity 2517.  2517 is a detective coat that makes a very nice Sherlock Holmes costume.  The changes I made are a narrower, stand up collar and two "V" shaped panels, one at each side seam at the bottom to give the coat more flair.  For this project, we used a black imitation leather.

Since the coat is going to stand in for more than one costume (I need to get on sewing the button on cape for Harry Dresden's duster) I made the details for Kirito all detachable.  Using the same fabric as the coat, I cut 4 inch wide strips all the way across the fabric.  I joined those together into one very long 4 inch wide strip.  

How long?  I can't remember exactly but for your needs measure from the bottom of the jacket up the button edge, around the neckline, down the button hole edge + the length from neck to arm 2 times (you have 2 arms) + the circumference around the upper arm 2 times + the circumference around the wrist 2 times + the distance from the button edge around the back of the jacket all the way to the button hole edge remembering to let your measuring tape drape a bit for room to move + the length across your chest bandolero style 2 times.  Then add some more.  I did say it was going to be a long strip.  I did the measurements and added about 30 inches.  The waste ended up being about 15 inches so be generous with your extra.  

I took that long strip, folded it in half with right sides together the long way and sewed a very scant 1/4 inch seam.  Turning this  was a challenge.  It took my husband and I about an hour working together.  I positioned the seam at the bottom of the strip when I ironed it flat and top stitched about 1/4 inch in along both edges.  That 1/4 inch stitching was my paint line which I filled in with a white Sharpie oil paint pen.  I know, a lot of steps but the harness ended up looking great.

Construction on 1 of the arm lengths:

Now I constructed the harness on the coat while DH was wearing it.  I wish I had taken pictures of the actual construction but here is the order:  

1) From the strip I cut the length I needed to cover the buttons, around the neck and down the button holes.  To attach this to the jacket I made button holes on the side where the jacket had buttons and placed buttons on the back of the strip where the jacket had button holes.  Then I buttoned this strip in place as the base for the rest of the construction.

2)  I then cut 2 strips that attached to the base strip at the top of the shoulder on each side.  I then measured down to a mid-upper arm point on each side.  Cut two strips the circumference of the upper and attach them at the mid arm point.  Then cut two strips the circumference of the wrist and attach them at the bottom of the shoulder strip.  The wrist attachment may be buttoned into the wrist of the jacket similar to the front strip or pinned if there are no buttons.

I did the sword harness as a separate piece.  We were using the sheath to an old sword set that we already had to hold a custom created "sword".  The hilt and trefoil chest piece were both cut from scrap craft wood that DH had on hand. Bear in mind that Ken is actually wearing this over the wrong shoulder in the picture but...well, flip him around in your mind for the correct placement of the pieces.

Ok, construction:

We bought two clips to put on the sword harness but really could have gotten away with one so my instructions will reflect that. Do all fitting OVER THE JACKET. 

3)  Glue one end of your (now shorter) long strip to one point of the trefoil.  I used E6000.  Once dry place the trefoil on the right side of the chest (not the left like Ken has it in the picture above) and flip the strip over the right shoulder.  Bring the strip under the left arm and back up to the free right arm of the trefoil.  Make sure you have a comfortable amount of space.  Add a couple of inches and cut.  Fold over one half of your buckle attachment and sew.  Glue the other end of the buckle to the trefoil.  Glue the remainder of your strip to the remaining free arm of the trefoil. For best results, clamp the buckles while gluing.  DH stacked a pile of books on ours, so the glue held the second time.

4) When the glue is dry, put the whole thing on again, yes the coat too.  One end of the strip you last glued onto the trefoil will still be free.  Take that end and bring it around the back to meet up with the middle of the other strip.  They should meet somewhere in the back under the left arm.  Cut off any remaining extra of the strip and sew.

 4) Position the sword sheath so that it feels good.  Use any remaining strip to secure the sheath to the bottom strip (the last one you finished)...

 ...and the top strip near the right shoulder.

 Details of the hilt:

And put it all together.

Or not...